What glue can I use it to repair glass lampshade that gets hot?

[randalbond]

Last time I used superglue which worked for a while. Gorilla glue? Two part polyurethane glue? Anything else? 

And thanks in advance for advice to buy a new lamshade. This one is antique, and I'd hold on to it for as long as possible.

[1956glyn]

H

I  i just did a quick google search for you......this response on a specialist forum may help you ?

"I would think probably a 2-part epoxy glue would be best, something like Araldite. It comes in 2 tubes, you have to mix a small amount of hardener with the glue, which then starts the curing process. Just read the instructions on the pack. Available at any DIY store, and probably most supermarkets."

A few years ago i broke a lovely genuine art deco lampshade and by a miracle a few months later found a similar one in a charity shop for about £10  !!

[randalbond]

Thank you very much indeed.

[mustavaquid]

Hi, again Randal.     I've found even the cheapest superglues and epoxy ones from the poundshops and 'Wilko' work very well on an extremely wide variety of materials.

I recently found an old pack of Wilko own brand epoxy which I bought around 25 years ago. I think it cost about £2-50 at the time. I had only used a small amount back then and so decided to see if it was still any good.  I just mixed a small amount on a piece of aluminium foil and left it to set and harden.

  It set in about 40 minutes but was still a little bit soft and flexible. I checked it every day over the next few weeks and it did harden and cure completely without turning brittle. It was without colour from start to finish, something you may want with a glass repair.

A week or so after doing this test, I lost one of the two tubes so bought a 'double pack'  ( 4 tubes, 2 of adhesive + 2 of hardener ) of BLOC branded on ebay for just £1-99. ( Look in my feedback, "left for others" and I think you can see who I got it from.)  There's about 50% more for less money than the Wilko stuff, but as it goes a long way and stores very well that doesn't really matter.

I tested this new stuff the same way as the Wilko and it set a little quicker, hardened and cured quicker too, but has a very noticeable yellow tinge.

In a local 'pound' shop many years back I found some superglue with advertising on it by Tommy Walsh. I got a pack just in case I needed it, four small 'flat' 'bottles' / tubes with long spouts, on a yellow & blue card for £1, so very cheap.  You could think that its no good at that price, but you would be wrong.

I've repaired several things with it over the years, mostly small plastic, metal and wood things and it's always been good and always completely clear. The main problem with all the superglues is they don't seem to keep very well, even if in a fridge.

I recently bought a fresh supply of superglue a few weeks back to repair a broken 'salad box' in a friend's fridge.  It's clear plastic and was shattered into two pieces. The repair is about 30cm. ( 12 inches ) long. It is not a bad looking fix and is very strong.

I bought a pack of "original" Araldite around 60 years ago and glued a short length of 1/2" copper tube to a piece of aluminium bar just as a test.   It was still together when I last saw it about 20 years ago. I found that early version took an age to set and many days to get anywhere near hard, even in a hot place, as was suggestedon in the instructions. It had a creamy colour even when fully cured.

Over time I successfully fixed many things with all of these glues, the most spectacular for me was a leaking petrol tank on a Ford Escort van I owned. I cleaned the area around the pin pick sized hole in the bottom of the tank and stuck two oversized pieces of  KITCHEN TISSUE over the hole.    I kept my hands clean by using some polythene sheet as a backing to the 'plaster' of tissue. I just made sure it

I never protected it with anything and it was still fine over a year later when I sold the van, and that was after it passed it's MOT.

[randalbond]

Quite a story about fixing your car. Was it with Araldite? Apart from that, thank you for detailed reply.

[mustavaquid]

No, the petrol tank fix was with the Tommy Walsh superglue from the poundshop.   I made up a 'plaster' on the polythene sheet with a piece of tissue well soaked with the glue and lifted it up onto the tank ( it was still on the van ) and smoothed the glue out to ensure it penetrated the hole and coated a lot of the tissue, if not all of it. It's waterproof glue so no real need to paint or otherwise coat..

After holding it to set for a few minutes, I pulled the poly away and repeated the process.

  I should add that it was a metal tank, not plastic which some are.

  For those plastic ones, a repair can usually be done by specialists who normally construct plastic tanks ranging in size from just  a few litres to over 30,000 litres.  Those are used in various industries.   I worked at one of those 'fabricators' for a few years before I retired a few years ago.  They also made GRP tanks and vessels of various types and sizes.

We often got HGV fuel tanks in for repair which had been 'tapped' for their contents of diesel fuel.

The repair needs the tank to be thoroughly clean and dry around the damage, and then a specialist hot air gun is used to slightly melt the plastic there as a length of 'filler' plastic "rod"is fed in to the "weld".

It is very similar to MIG welding metals, but at around 200 degrees C. 

 I dare say that a keen and careful DIYer could make s similar repair with a do

mestic hot air gun and scrap of plastic, which MUST be the same type as the item to be repaired.

[mustavaquid]

BTW, the BLOC epoxy I bought on ebay, just looking at the pack this morning, it says not suitable for temperatures over 93 C.

I don't know how hot your lamp runs but I think that glue would be fne for it in that regard.

It also says "clear drying", so I've just mixed another test sample and the yellow tinge I mentioned doesn't look as strong as before, especially when spread very thinly.         

  There's really no way of knowing if any glue will dry clear enough for the job without trying it. 

I clearly remember that the original Alraldite was fine for heat up to SEVERAL HUNDRED degrees C., the later versions being less good for that.

[randalbond]

I looked up Wilko's own brand and will go for it. Thanks for your help/

[mustavaquid]

Yet another thought.     You say the lampshade gets hot, so have you thought about changing the bulb to a low energy one which will run at a much lower temperature and also save you money ?  It may also run cool enough for you to use superglue for the repair to the shade.

I found a local pound shop ( yes, them again ) had some for sale at a much reduced price when they were closing down a couple of years back.

They were Ultrabrite brand ( I've never heard of that one before ), traditional bulb shape, 60mm diameter, 60 Watt output rating but of course very low consumption -- A+ rating -- 9 kWh per 1000 hours, BC ( Bayonet Cap ) fitting, 'warm white' colour, NON DIMMABLE, average life of 25,000 hours, full CE mark and just 60p. each as they were closing down.   I got the last two of that type and left behind quite a few others which were different fittings and so no good to me..

I put one of the two in my living room just a few weeks later when the bulb there failed and it's still running. It runs 24 / 7 and has hardly been switched off since fitting it.   

25,000 hours is very roughly 150 weeks, that's about three years, so I'm expecting a lot more life in it yet. The other bulb is fitted in the smallest room so may live forever.

I've just touched one bulb to remind myself of how hot it runs and it's only just warm over the main area and can be touched there continuously, and only gets unbearable near the metal fitting at its neck. Since buying these I've seen similar ones in a 'cheap' shop -- not a proper 'pound shop' -- at about £3 each. 

Wilko normally have a good selection of low energy bulbs in different shapes, Wattages and fittings at quite good prices but obviously nothing as cheap as the ones I got.

Occasionally my electricity supplier sends out free bulbs, normally 4 or 5 in a pack, the 'thin multi-tube' type, but they are only about 30 - 40 Watt so not really bright enough to my liking for the living room.  I do have a couple or so of those fitted in the bedrooms where lower lighting is fine.

[randalbond]

Good morning. That's the little lamp. I don't know the caliber. I don't think we can buy an energy-saving version. Lampshades are in the shape of tulip/bluebell and it cracked along the glueline. Today I'll get epoxy glue and see if it helps. I finished my countertop in epoxy and am very fond of this material.

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[mustavaquid]

Hi, that looks to be a very strange type of bulb and not one available in a low energy version.  Is it a 240 Volt one? Is it halogen?

 FYI, the diameter of the cap on a BC ( Bayonet Cap ) bulb is 22mm..

[peteryola]

Not necessarily - there's two sizes in widespread use, large BC and small BC...

[mustavaquid]

For Your Informatiom,   what you call "large" BC is the "usual" BC ( as I said, 22mm. diameter, or probably more precisely 7/8" ) and SMALL BC which is called SBC. I cannot recall the diameter of that.

Do you want to discuss Edison Screw and the various sizes of that, not forgetting of course MBC and the various pin and contact configurations of "all things bulbs"? 

[peteryola]

I called it large BC simply because taht's what most shops have printed on the packs these days.  

[mustavaquid]

Peter, that may be the case with shops like ASDA yet every pack I see, and have seen for many, many years, is marked with just BC for the larger one and SBC for the smaller. They really are the correct terms. I did look at ASDA last night and saw they have both Large Bayonet Cap and Bayonet Cap stated for what I am sure are the same size. The illustrations certainly look like that. ASDA look to be confusing the issue.

I think I know a bit about bulb fitting descriptions as I started selling them at Halfords about 55 years ago. At one time I could tell you the full description of a vehicle bulb just by being given its number, and vice versa.

My memory is fading a bit now but not so much that I've forgotten those household ones.

[mustavaquid]

More info..   I've just looked at the box of one of my 60p. poundshop bulbs which I've kept with another bulb in it, and it has a small outline illustration of the cap with the wording underneath it:-        BAYONET CAP  ( BC / B22 )                                                                                

[peteryola]

Just had a look at my spare bulbs - while most of them do say B22, two packets don't say anything about the fitting at all - although in that instance the bulb is fully visible in a plastic cover so you can at least see what you're buying.